Strangely satisfying (or satisfyingly strange) selections
“More ‘Frankenstein’ than ‘wolf man’”—that was the prompt I gave the In Vino Veritas team for this month’s reviews. We wanted to do something for Halloween so we decided to review strange wines: unusual grapes and blends.
You will notice some new names below. Please welcome the new 1L executive members of In Vino Veritas: Alexa Cheung, Angela Gu, and Olivia Mazza!
Tom
Il Falcone Rosso Riserva Castel del Monte 2013
$24.95 at the LCBO
This versatile wine is a blend of Nero (Uva) di Troia and Montepulciano. Nero di Troia grows in Troia, a town in the north of Puglia, Italy. According to legend, the ancient Greek hero Diomedes founded the town after the Trojan War, and the Greeks may also have brought the grape to Troia. Today, few cultivate it because it is difficult to grow well: it is very tannic and it ripens unevenly, defying a quick harvest. Il Falcone is a rare and pleasant example. It opens to aromas of dark red fruits, a faint smokiness, and tobacco. Its flavours and light-medium body remind me a little of Pinot Noir. Look for bright, red fruit (especially raspberry), sour blueberries, and a long savoury finish. Pair it with mature cheeses.
Angela
Deu la Deu Alvarinho 2018
$19.95 at the LCBO
I love an underrated wine—one that doesn’t hail from famed regions with wineries that people like to name-drop. And I love easy-drinking bottles—nothing too intimidating because wine is to be enjoyed, not feared! Deu la Deu Alvarinho 2018 is both of those things. It’s a Portuguese vinho verde (literally “green wine”) from a region of the same name. I started exploring Portuguese wines this summer, enjoying cheap and cheerful vinho verde whites at backyard BBQs, a picnic in a park, and on the patio of a family-run Mediterranean restaurant.
Although vinho verde is catching on, this varietal is still a little out of the ordinary. And this cork-top bottle from Adega de Monção, a winemakers’ co-op, is different from the typical screw-capped and refreshingly spitzy white wines often associated with the region. This one has no sparkle at all. It has a floral nose. It’s just a little fruity—not as crisp as some other vinho verde whites. It almost tastes…warm. I think I was getting a little vanilla. There’s some minerality, and it leaves a certain acidity I’m not sure I like. Deu la Deu is not exactly sunshine in a bottle, but it brings me a little joy.
Olivia
Beringer Brothers Bourbon Barrel Aged Red Wine Blend
$18.95 at the LCBO
In honour of Halloween, we’re moving out of our comfort zones and trying new things (ooh scary!) I don’t necessarily drink bourbon, but I do love whisky. So, I thought it’d be fun to try this combination: a bourbon barrel-aged red wine blend. The blend itself is nothing wild; it is mainly Petite Sirah. But, the bourbon barrel aging intrigued me. The wine is fairly fruit-forward with primarily darker fruits like blackberry and black cherry. The bourbon barrel-aging process appears to have also given the wine a subtle, smoky flavour as well as some sweet, caramelly flavours. That smoky sweetness carries through to the finish. The body was lighter than I expected, and it’s quite easy to drink. I would recommend letting it breathe, though. I left it to decant for about twenty minutes, which seemed to open up its flavours a bit more than when I first sipped it.
Kimia
Château Bellevue La Forêt 2016
$14.95 at the LCBO
This is an enchanting wine from southwest France. It stars the commune of Fronton’s rare and unusual Negrette grape, which makes up to 55 percent of this blend, and which gives the blend its dark, smoky quality. According to legend, the Knights Templar brought Negrette from Cyprus to France’s Gaillac. From there, the grape travelled west to Fronton, which today remains its almost exclusive home. This wine is smooth and full of character. The nose is ratxher spicy with aromas of fresh pepper, licorice, and smoke. On the palate, it is full-bodied and earthy, with long-lasting dark fruit flavours. I tried it with Korean BBQ ribs and really liked the combo, but this wine would also pair excellently with classic French dishes.
