Toward a sustainable future
Now seems like an opportune time to drink responsibly. You are reading this article on your electronic device, because COVID-19 has made printing Ultra Vires impractical. But COVID-19 is just one symptom of our planet’s beleaguered condition. We all bear some responsibility for the state of things; that means taking what steps we can to alleviate the burden we embody. Supporting organic and biodynamic wines should be one of those steps.
You may have already enjoyed an organic or biodynamic wine, without even realizing it. Organic wines are made from organic grapes; whether grapes are organic depends on pesticide use, among other things. Although the designation “organic” requires certification, many winemakers grow their grapes using organic practices.
Similarly, an increasing number of winemakers use biodynamic processes without getting certification from private organizations like Demeter and Biodyvin. Biodynamic processes go beyond farming; they include restrictions on the entire process, such as not using sulphur dioxide as a preservative.
Making responsible choices when choosing a wine is not difficult: ask staff at your local LCBO about organic and biodynamic options; support local producers to reduce transportation emissions; use a reusable bag to transport your wine from the store; and reuse or recycle your bottles!
In the spirit of sustainability, In Vino Veritas offers you some smart choices.
Danica Bennewies
Lupi Reali Montepulciano D’Abruzzo DOC Organic
$11.95
When browsing my local LCBO’s organic section for a wine for this month’s review, I gravitated toward the Lupi Reali. I was in the mood for an Italian red and this one was both affordable and ICEA certified. ICEA stands for Istituto per la Certificazione Etica ed Ambientale, or, for those who don’t speak Italian, the Environmental and Ethical Certification Institute. The ICEA trademark indicates a wine producer that has been subject to quality control standards to guarantee an organic and vegan product. Thus, this Montepulciano was produced without the use of any artificial pesticides or chemicals that may have a negative environmental impact.
The name “Lupi Reali” also hints at the philosophy behind this wine. It means “Royal Wolves” and is named for the national park that contains its vineyards—a nature preserve dedicated to repopulating the endangered Apennine wolf.
Noble goals aside, I’m not sure that I’m a huge fan of this wine on its own; it needs food. On first sip I found it to be very acidic, to the extent that I would almost call it sour. I gave it a second shot alongside a bowl of pasta alla norma, which helped to mellow out the wine’s sharp acidity and let more of the earthiness come through. So, on the plus side, the high acidity will stand up to any dish. The Lupi Reali is a good option for those looking for an affordable Italian red wine that is produced in an environmentally friendly manner. Just be sure to pair it with a bowl of your favourite pasta!
Alexa Cheung
Novas Gran Reserva Sauvignon Blanc Organic
$15.90 at the LCBO
I have to admit, it was slightly difficult to track down a sustainable wine to review. I ended up choosing a Sauvignon Blanc, a type of wine that I usually tend to find a bit too dry for my taste. To my surprise, I ended up stumbling across one of my favourite bottles of the year! This award-winning Chilean bottle was made from organically grown grapes in the San Antonio Valley, a rising hotspot for New World whites. The wine was delicious, with bright notes of lemon and grapefruit coming across in every sip. It would pair well with light meals like seafood, as it tasted excellent with my shrimp fried rice.
Tom Collins
Hidden Bench Pinot Noir 2015
$34.95 at the LCBO for the current vintage
I cannot believe that this is my final review for In Vino Veritas. It seems like a perfect opportunity to review something really special. Hidden Bench’s Pinot Noir is everything that I want in a bottle of wine: it is produced locally, in Beamsville, Ontario; it is VQA certified, meaning the wine comes from 100% Ontario grapes; it is certified organic; it is grown biodynamically; it is vegan; and it is delicious. I had the pleasure of opening a bottle of the 2015 vintage, which is peaking right now, but you can expect excellence with any of Hidden Bench’s vintages; the winery only releases bottles from years that meet certain standards.
The 2015 vintage is a beautiful, light ruby red, but it has some good density and viscosity. Its nose displays a whole range of red fruit, like cherries, raspberries, and strawberries, as well as marzipan. That provocative blend carries through to the flavour. I can taste red fruit, especially strawberries and cherries. There is also some blueberry in there. This wine is anything but jammy, though. It is light-bodied, and it has just enough acidity to give it lift. Superfine tannins give a silky mouthfeel. Lemon rind on the finish gives the whole experience a certain tautness. Pair this beauty with roasted mushrooms, sharp cheeses, or even sushi!
Angela Gu
Heymann-Löwenstein Röttgen GG Riesling 2016
$60.00 at the LCBO
The Heymann-Löwenstein vineyard sits in the Moselle Valley. Their vines grow in the Moselle’s characteristic slate soils and are nourished with their house-made composted fertilizer. They boast that their vineyard is nestled in an intact ecosystem, with a growing population of endangered butterflies. They produce “natural” wines, fermented only by the wild yeasts naturally found on the grapes, without additives.
Some natural wines can send sippers running for the hills due to their reputation for being funky and unpredictable. Some taste like kombucha, like the Southbrook Vidal Skin Fermented White Orange Wine ($29.95 at the LCBO), which smells like salty ketchup with some umami whiffs; I find it challenging.
I wasn’t about to place my wager on a bottle of natural wine that could potentially taste like damp regret. So, I visited the LCBO’s tasting bar at 49 Spadina Ave after lurking their Instagram account, @49spadinawines. They offer themed $15 tasting flights comprising four one-ounce pours, and I stopped by to try their featured natural wine flight. (The tasting bar is temporarily closed in response to the COVID-19 situation, but they’ll be back eventually.) I tried this absolutely stunning Heymann-Löwenstein Riesling, and I’m prepared to splurge on a bottle of this for a special occasion. It’s a beautiful straw colour, and it smells sweet and apricot-y. In fact, it smells like gummy bears. It has a zingy acidity, and produces a pucker just like lemon juice, and tastes more sweet than dry. Essentially, this is sunshine in a glass, and it could very well be the way to my heart.
Amy Lin
Flat Rock Nadja’s Vineyard Riesling
$24.95 at the LCBO
When buying a bottle of wine on a Friday night, sustainability is seldom one’s priority. In our search for some liquid indulgence at the end of a long week, we rarely stop to think about the environmental impacts that occur at each stage of the winemaking process like soil health, waste management, and energy consumption. This month, I picked up a Riesling from Flat Rock Cellars, a certified sustainable winery based in the Niagara region. Amongst other eco-friendly commitments, Flat Rock opts for a geo-thermal system for all their heating and cooling needs.
The wine itself is presented in a sleek bottle with a distinct red label. You will immediately notice aromas of green apples and pear, followed by a pleasant bouquet of citrus blossoms. On the palate, this off-dry white has prominently citrus notes—lemon zest and orange—with hints of apricot. As someone who prefers a sweeter sipping white, this wine was a bit too tart for me to drink on its own. However, I would recommend it paired with spicy cuisines, such as Thai or Indian.
Kimia Veisi Nezhad
Cono Sur Chardonnay Organic
$13.95 at the LCBO
Cono Sur is an eco-friendly winery in Chile. It has been compensating for the carbon footprint of transporting their wine by purchasing bonds to benefit greenhouse gas emissions reduction projects. Their website mentions that, in 2017, they compensated 10.888 tons of CO2 through the West Indian Wind Power Project to generate clean energy and the Reserva Costera Valdiviana Project to reforest the Valdivian Coast.
I found this refreshing wine at the Yonge and Eglinton LCBO. The cute label on the bottle (a bicycle in a field of poppies) showcases the winery’s love for nature and commitment to protecting the environment. The wine is light gold in color and has a very citrusy nose. It is drier and more acidic than your average Chardonnay. On the palate, this wine is crisp and light, with flavours of melon, pineapple, citrus, and minerals. It is very easy to drink on its own. I did not like it with oven-baked salmon, but lighter seafood could work. I suggest pairing it with a light salad: kale, strawberries, goat cheese, pickled shallots, olive oil, and lemon juice.
