Ultra Vires

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Feeling Fortified

In Vino Veritas

Fortified wine is wine to which quantities of distilled spirits are added. They were originally developed as a way to preserve wines for longer periods of time before refrigeration existed, however, they have stuck around due to their popularity and uniqueness. They are typically very sweet, making them particularly suitable as aperitifs or as after-dinner drinks. Due to their strong and intricate flavours, fortified wines are also often excellent additions to cocktail drinks. 

The reviews this month highlight a diversity of popular fortified wines as well as a fortified wine cocktail. Sawyer starts us off with a review of a Spanish sherry that works well as an aperitif. If you are looking to go upscale and impress family and friends, be sure to check out Sawyer’s review of a 10-year-old Sercial from the Madeiro Islands of Portugal. Angela reviews a port from the well known Duoro region in Portugal that works well as a dessert wine. Lastly, if you are looking for a delicious, summery cocktail that incorporates a ginger apertif wine, then you will love Tom’s review. 

Sawyer Peloso (1L)

Emilio Lustau Los Arcos Amontillado Dry Sherry

Available at the LCBO: $17.95

I was initially drawn to this type of fortified wine (sherry) because of the song “Sherry Baby,” but I stayed for the taste. This wine from Spain has a very cool caramel-like colour. On the nose, there was an interesting mixture of nuts, toffee and caramel. It is viscous and syrupy initially, although the taste of dried fruits, almonds and lemons stands out the most. The finish is both dry and long and it left me wanting more. Although the flavour is somewhat complex, it is both very drinkable and sweet. As someone who has generally reserved fortified wines for cocktails, I am sold on the idea of a sherry such as this one being used as an aperitif. I would specifically recommend pairing it with almonds and serrano ham.

Justino’s Madeira 10 Year Old Sercial

Available at the LCBO: $48.80 

Since I had not really indulged in fortified wines prior to this review, and I have developed a reputation for reviewing wine that is on the more expensive side, I also wanted to try a well-reviewed but upscale fortified wine. This one, from the Madeira Islands in Portugal, has a very mesmerizing gold colour. On the nose, lemon and dried fruits stand out the most. I was impressed with the complex but balanced palate consisting of smoky and nutty flavours, with dried fruits ultimately dominating. Once again, the finish was somewhat dry, but it was very long and smooth. The integration of aroma and flavour felt just right on this one, combining intricacy and accessibility. I even felt somewhat justified in spending the higher amount. This is a great option as an aperitif at a wine and cheese event.

Angela Gu (2L)

Quinta do Crasto Late Bottled Vintage Port 2014

Available at the LCBO: $14.95

Apparently 2014 was a challenging year for Portugal’s Douro region, but I’m new to the world of fortified wines and all I can say is that this small bottle is very drinkable. This port has a gorgeously opaque dark ruby colour. While it’s plush and initially syrupy on the tongue with jammy flavours, it has notes of chocolate and oak, with a nice dry finish. It’s just tannic enough so that it’s not cloyingly sweet. It’s like Welch’s grape juice, but for adults. This port’s residual sugar comes in at 97g/L, and obscures the strength of the alcohol (a nice 20% ABV), making it a fun dessert drink. 

Tom Russell (1L)

Ginger & Elderberry Cocktail

Stone’s Green Ginger Aperitif Wine (Available at the LCBO: $11.45)

St-Germain Elderflower Liqueur (Available at the LCBO: $49.95)

Ginger wine is a quirky and interesting type of fortified wine. It is made by blending fermented ginger root and raisins, before being fortified, often with brandy. The first record of this beverage was in London in 1740. Since that time, it has known periods of popularity as a remedy for cholera, as a digestive aid, and even as an aphrodisiac! In summary, this beverage is strange, but definitely delicious.

A Ginger & Elderberry Cocktail is a delicious, sweet, summery drink that you really must try. For this cocktail, the recipe was slightly modified to make it more accessible. 

Ingredients:

  • 1.5 ounces of Ginger Wine (I used Stone’s Green Ginger Aperitif Wine)
  • 0.5-1.0 ounces of Elderflower Liqueur (I used St-Germain)
  • A splash of bitters (either citrus or aromatic bitters)
  • 1 stick of lemon grass
  • 2 mint leaves
  • 1 lime wedge
  • Optional: Splash of lemon juice

Method:

  1. Chill the Ginger Wine and Elderflower Liqueur and mix in a glass
  2. Add a splash of bitters and (optional) a splash of lemon juice
  3. Mix with the lemon grass stick
  4. Add 2 mint leaves and leave lemon grass stick along the side
  5. Garnish with lime wedge

Voila! It’s easy and delicious. However, please note this is a fairly sweet drink. If necessary, mix with a splash of gin or carbonated water to help reduce the sweetness to your taste.

A delicious ginger and elderberry cocktail, photo credit: Tom Russell

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